Through the years the du Pont organization has met and solved practically every automotive refinishing problem that can be imagined. In the interests of better refinishing du Pont has made the following information available.
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This condition is usually found where the finish forms a centerline on cowls and turret tops. If the left side of the car is painted first, the overspray appears to the left of the centerline when the right side is sprayed—or vice versa. At this point, the gun is held at an angle and farther from the surface than at other points of the stroke.
To overcome, spray side of the car on which overspray appears with a wet mist coat. A mist coat is made by adding several parts of thinner to the color left in the cup, or it may be a straight coat of a good thinner.
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Caused by the presence of rust on the surface before finishing—and no paint will adhere to a rusty surface. To avoid this, always sand all rust spots bright and treat the bare metal with a metal conditioner such as “Deoxidine,” “Metalprep,” etc., before finishing.
Wash with water and dry thoroughly. Always prime the surface immediately after cleaning, as rust will set in if the bare metal is exposed too long.
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Always follow recommended procedures when reducing and applying successive coats of Dulux, and always add RK-5756 to 93 Line if the film is to be force dried.
This blistered outline of fingerprints shows what can happen when bare hands touch any surface about to be painted. No matter how clean the hands may seem, there is almost always some dirt, grease, oil, or perspiration which will cause blistering, rust, and poor adhesion. Keep bare hands off the surface!
In automobile plants, bodies are never directly touched with human hands after being chemically cleaned—the operators wear cotton gloves. It’s a good practice for ALL painters to follow!
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The left section of this panel, which was exposed on a paint farm, shows (in comparison with an unexposed section on right) what happens when a finish chalks. A natural failure, chalking is the gradual breaking up of the film under weathering and exposure to the sun’s rays. It results in a gradual loss of gloss and powdering of the surface.
When this condition is encountered, rub and polish the surface to remove “dead” pigments and get to the “live” film beneath. Then wax the finish to protect and prolong its life. The use of a mist coat mixed with a slower-drying thinner on a finishing job will enable the film to set better and aid in retarding chalking.
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This condition results from applying lacquer type products over unaged air dry synthetic finishes. It also results from applying a finish over a surface from which old wax, grease, or polish is not thoroughly removed.
To avoid the latter, always clean the old surface with Prep-Sol to remove wax, grease, polish, and other foreign matter before any sanding is done. Improper recoat time may also cause lifting.
Cause:
Because putties usually dry quickly, they may shrink, split, and remain soft when applied too heavily, as shown by this close-up.
Cure:
Apply several light coats with a glazing knife or squeegee, allow to dry between coats.
Use Prep-Sol as a cleaning agent to remove wax, grease, and polish from the old surface.
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These conditions, each a degree of the other, result when:
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